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The top panel of the center console is easily removed. I opened the lid of the storage compartment and removed two philips screws on either side. I also removed the lid itself (four hex screws on the hinge). The console panel just pops right off after that. It's a little tricky getting the panel completely off, I pulled the e-brake up as high as it would go and with a combination of rotating the console and moving the shift lever it finally came off. I was very careful not to scratch everything up, by using a towel wrapped around the front end of the console panel. Here you see the switch installed on the console, to the right of where the shift lever goes. A Dremel motor tool was used to drill the 1/2" hole required for mounting the switch. The location of the switch was not my first choice, but decided upon based on clearance underneath when the console is back in place. |
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Once the top panel of the center console is up, the panels on each side of the center dash panel pop right out by pulling them forward. Removing those panels makes it easier to run wires. This picture is the underside of the console switch. You can see I had to grind down a little bit of plastic there in order to provide for the threaded mounting nut of the switch. You'll notice the switch has three terminals. Being a lighted switch, it requires a 12v line, and a ground, and the third terminal is the 12v load supply that will go to the LOCB.2, stiffening cap, and amplifier. |
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To wire the switch, I fastened a ground to a 1/2" bolt near the e-brake base then ran a speaker wire pair from the console to the passenger side remote trigger wire previously run from the battery. Spade connectors were applied to these wires for later connection to the center console switch. An additional wire was attached to the load wire, and run across to the driver side to power the LOCB.2. In this picture you see the bundle of wires that will connect up to the switch. |
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The speaker wire pair was run across the passenger side to the slack left earlier, and connected up to intercept the 12v line and send it to the switch and back. After this picture was taken, I thought this to be an ideal place to put an "override" switch on the 12v trigger line and hide it behind this removable panel. It was a simple on/off toggle that cuts power to the lighted console switch. A nice thing to have if you are worried about curious vehicle service personnel who might switch on your stuff and have a party when you bring your car in for an oil change or maintenance. |
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After running all the wires, the panels on either side of the center dash panel were popped back in. The center switch was then connected up to the prepared leads, and the center console top panel was put back. In this picture you see everything all back in place, and the brightly lit switch set to the on position. The lighted switch is important, since the remote triggers are all powered by a direct lead from the battery, and it will be easy to forget and leave the switch on when exiting the vehicle. This most often will result in a dead battery. |
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