| Page 1 | Page 2 | Page 3 | Page 4 | Page 5 |
|
Bundling the four gauge and the trigger wire with tie-wraps, I ran them through an existing hole in the fender which leads directly down into the wheel well. The cable and trigger will be covered in wire loom and connected up to the battery later. The cable is fused at the battery with a 60A fuse. The trigger will use a 10A fuse at the battery. There is a nut/bolt right on the positive battery terminal connection that almost makes you think they knew I was coming, ideal for connecting the cable and trigger loop connectors. |
 |
The cable and trigger were then fed through the topless nipple and bundled together with tie-wraps. Black wire loom was run from the nipple all the way up through to the fuse holder under the hood. The cable then ends up in the passenger side foot area. With all this in place, the inner lining of the wheel well can be reinstalled. The plastic screws don't take a lot of force to snap into place, they basically go about 1/2 turn and that's it. The two lower snap-in connectors are a little tricky. I made sure that the inner lining was sandwiched between the two metal prongs and the plastic lower side trim panel before snapping them in, otherwise it doesn't go back in properly. |
 |
The cable and trigger are further bundled together with tie-wraps in prep to run them back to the trunk. Notice the extra slack left in the trigger to provide for a later tap/connection to the remote trigger switch that will be located in the center console. |
 |
The cable and trigger were stuffed under the plastic trim and routed to the rear passenger area. The seat was removed by pushing a couple tabs in the front, the seat just pops right out. This made running the cable into the trunk a much easier task. The cable was then run up the side and then follows a bundle of factory wires into the trunk area. |
 |
The RCA and remote bass cable were similarly run along the driver's side. No trim needed to be removed, it is easy to stuff them right underneath it, all the way to the trunk. In this picture you can see the dangling LOCB.2 and the remote bass controller. Power and ground of the LOCB.2 are still not yet connected. The ground of the LOCB.2 was connected to a 1/2" bolt up underneath near the amplifiers. The LOCB.2 12v power is provided by a wire running from the center console switch. |
| Page 1 | Page 2 | Page 3 | Page 4 | Page 5 |