The SHAKER 1100 - Page 2
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The amp is centered on the back of the box, washers were used to space it about 1/8 inch from the surface. This will prevent noise caused by vibration that would have been created between the bottom panel of the amplifier and the surface of the box. I think it will also help with cooling. The speaker wires coming out of the enclosure have been carefully located so that they will be hidden beneath the chrome shroud once it is in place. The 4 ohm speakers have been wired in parallel to the "A" channel of the 6001bd, creating a 2 ohm load on a single mono channel. This will allow for the full 600+ watt output of the amplifier. The short runs of 8 gauge speaker wire should also help maximize the power to the subs.

The cap was centered between the edge of the amp and the edge of the box, and a couple of aluminum distribution blocks allow for dual 4 gauge connections to each of its terminals. The power, ground, and remote turn-on wires are run from the cap to amplifier. The ground and remote turn on are left dangling and will be connected up once the enclosure is installed in the vehicle. The power wire will be connected directly into the distribution block on the cap at that time as well. This chump weighs 85 lbs.
Time to begin the installation. I located the Shaker 500's two amplifiers, found on the drivers side in plain view up underneath the dash against the left wall. There's one amp for each door subwoofer, I'll be tapping into the pre-amp level signal going to the passenger side amp. This picture shows the amp's connector removed and hanging (the gray plug with red pin area), in prep for the next step which will be to tap into the +/- pre-amp wires.
Removed some electrical tape, pulled back the black wire loom, and exposed the wires leading to this connector. I snipped and stripped the brown/orange (+) and red/black (-) pre-amp signal wires, and applied a male spade connector to the positive and female connector to the negative wire. Notice I am merely tapping into the signal, not intercepting it. The Soundgate LOCB.2 adapter will allow the existing amplifier to run normally while also providing a set of pre-amp RCA jacks for an additional amp. I then twisted together the right/left + wires on the LOCB.2 and applied a female spade to that, and twisted together the right/left - wires on the LOCB.2 and applied the male spade connector to that. Then the LOCB.2 plugs right in to the tapped wires. NOTE that once the LOCB.2 is plugged in, these connections need to be insulated. Since I didn't have any insulated spade connectors, electrical tape was tightly wrapped around each connection to avoid shorting them together (which could end in frying the head unit).
Now, to get the four gauge power cable and 12v trigger wire from the battery under the hood, through the firewall and into the interior of the vehicle. To do so, I dropped the inner lining of the fender well, a simple process. Turn the wheel all the way to the left, use a philips screwdriver to gently turn the plastic fasteners (don't strip these babies, they turn real easy). There are two fasteners at the bottom that require fingernails to kind of pop out the center of them. I then pull the lining completely out and put it aside.
Removing the lining has revealed the FM antenna lead (orange) and a rather large bundle of wires passing through a massive rubber grommet type structure. Notice the nipple-like thing sticking out of the rubber mass in the picture. Using a very sharp x-acto knife I carefully cut the top off the nipple. Conveniently, the resulting hole is a nearly perfect fit for a four gauge cable.


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